Frequently Asked Questions
Everything you need to know about LED halogen replacement bulbs
LED Halogen Replacement Bulbs — FAQ
Find answers to the most common questions about switching from halogen to LED lighting.
Yes, as long as the base type matches (e.g., E26, GU10, MR16) and the voltage is compatible (120V or 12V). For standard household screw-base fixtures, it's a direct swap. For 12V systems (like MR16 spotlights), check that your existing transformer supports low-wattage LED loads.
Look at lumens, not watts. A 50W halogen produces about 800 lumens — so you need an 800-lumen LED, which typically draws only 7-10W. Our packaging clearly shows the equivalent halogen wattage for easy reference.
That depends on the color temperature. Traditional halogens are warm at about 2700K–3000K. If you want that same cozy glow, choose 2700K or 3000K. For a brighter, whiter light (ideal for kitchens or home offices), choose 4000K–5000K.
This is the most common issue — it's usually caused by an incompatible old dimmer switch. Halogen dimmers need a higher power load to function. When you switch to a low-wattage LED, the dimmer may flicker or fail to dim fully.
Solution: Replace your dimmer with one labeled "LED-compatible" — this almost always fixes the problem.
No. Halogens can reach 500°F (260°C), while LEDs run at only 100–150°F (38–66°C) — much safer and cooler. However, please ensure your fixture has some airflow — using LEDs in completely sealed, enclosed fixtures with no ventilation can shorten their lifespan.
Yes, but choose bulbs specifically labeled "Enclosed Fixture Rated" or "IC-Rated". These are designed to handle trapped heat better. For standard open fixtures, most of our LEDs work fine. Always check the packaging for fixture compatibility notes before installation.